How can I tell if I have a hidden leak before the crew arrives?
Check the water meter with all fixtures closed, look for warm or soft floors, and watch for stains that spread or smells that have no obvious source. Note what you see and when, and send photographs to the line.
The meter test is the simplest. Close every tap, toilet, washer and dishwasher, then read the meter. Read it again after an hour or two when no one is using water. If the reading changes, the leak is on the supply side of the house.
A warm spot on a tiled floor can also point to a hot-water leak, since the water is warmer than the room. Mention any warm spot on the call, because it is a useful clue for the crew.
Will the crew cut into my wall to find the leak?
Only where the readings and the pattern point to one place. The crew uses the least invasive method first and opens the smallest hole that will confirm the source. The opening is patched once the repair is complete and the cavity has dried.
Walls are opened with care, and the crew tells you where the opening will be before it is made. The location is chosen to reach the pipe or joint with the fewest cuts, and it is noted in the scope so a later repair can be planned.
If the readings do not point to a single spot, the crew may open more than one small hole. It will explain why each one is needed and will not open a larger area than the evidence supports.
Who repairs the leak once it is found?
A plumber repairs the supply or drain line, and the crew does not do the plumbing. The crew can stop the water at a valve, document the source and tell you which trade to call. Ask the plumber for the repair in writing.
A repair that is done before drying begins prevents the wall from being wet again. A repair done after the drying can be checked against the readings, so the crew and the plumber can agree the area is clear.
Keep the plumber's invoice with the crew's report. Together they show the source, the repair and the drying, which is the record that matters for any later claim or sale.
What moves the price of a leak detection job?
The price depends on how hard the leak is to reach, how many openings are needed, how much material is opened and dried, and what the plumber's repair involves. No figure is given on this site, and the price is explained and approved before the work starts.
A leak behind a valve that can be reached from a closet is usually a short visit. A leak under a slab or inside a long run of wall is a larger one, with more reading, more openings and more drying.
Ask the crew to show you where it expects to open and why. The scope should name each opening and the reason for it, and you can decline a particular opening if you want to discuss it first.
What if the readings are dry but the leak is still suspected?
Ask the crew to repeat the readings and to test the suspected line again. A line that was dry at one visit may still leak under pressure or at a different time of day, and repeated checks often find what the first did not.
The crew can run a controlled test on the supply side, with the meter and the fixtures in a set state, to see whether the reading changes. The result is written down and is compared with the earlier meter reading.
If the test is inconclusive, a plumber can run a pressure test on the line. That is the most reliable way to confirm a supply leak, and it is a plumbing task, not a drying one.